Food Tours · Tour

Tlayudas and Beef Tongue in Frida Kahlo's Coyoacan

Coyoacan is where Mexico City goes on a Sunday, and where Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and Octavio Paz all lived at various points, which for one neighbourhood is a remarkable concentration. Three and a half hours, six tasting stops, and the range is deliberately wide: the market, street stalls, family places that have been there for decades, and a couple of contemporary kitchens. What you eat: tostadas, including a tuna one that is the local benchmark; tlayudas, which are Oaxacan and which Coyoacan does properly; esquites, the cup of corn with mayonnaise, chilli and lime that is the great Mexican street snack; quesadillas; beef tongue in adobo, which is better than it sounds if you have never had it; grilled street corn; and candied fruit from the market. Beer and mezcal are included, and there are tequila cocktails. The walking takes in the Jardin Centenario, which was the main square here before the Spanish arrived; the parish church of San Juan Bautista, one of the first the Spanish built after the conquest; Francisco Sosa Avenue, which has more listed historic buildings than any other street in the city; and the Fuente de los Coyotes, which is the fountain everybody photographs. Ten people at most, in English or Spanish, with the six tastings, the beer, the mezcal and bottled water. Wheelchair accessible throughout, service animals allowed, prams fine. Arrive fifteen minutes early: the tour starts on time.